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8.1.2008

Dragon Scarf Pattern

The original idea and inspiration for this scarf is Silvia66’s Leopardi Scarf. The measurements, stitch counts, techniques, final structure etc. attributes of the Dragon Scarf pattern are however my own making. The pattern is available also as a downloadable PDF file.

The scarf is based on two different ribbing stitch patterns, stockinette stitch and individually worked ridges, and can therefore be made in different sizes and with many kinds of yarns. That is why the pattern does not give any detailed instructions or specific recommendations for yarn, needles or stitch count.

If you have questions about the pattern please contact me via email (sisainen.villapaita(a)netti.fi). You can find more pictures of my two dragon scarves in Flickr. You can also find the Dragon Scarf in Ravelry as well as some other designs of mine.

Pattern
Yarn: Any yarn will do, but in my opinion bulky or even super bulky yarns would be the best choice. The pattern works especially well with soft and squishy yarns, such as bulky mohair yarns.
Yarn consumption: Depends on the size of the scarf and the yarn used. The fuchsia dragon scarf took 185 g of bulky mohair (Novita Maxi Mohair) yarn while the green version took 250 g of bulky acrylic yarn (GB Wolle Florida).
Needles: Depending on yarn and gauge approx. 6-10 mm. Crochet hook for finishing.

The scarf consists of two different ribbing stitches, stockinette stitch and ridges that are knitted individually. First you work in k2, p2 ribbing for 12 cm (4,75”), then continue in k1, p3 ribbing for 4 cm (1,5”). After this you work in stockinette stitch for 2 cm (0,75”) before starting the ridges. Following figure illustrates the structure of the scarf and portions of different stitch patterns.

Stitch count depends on the yarn and desired length of the scarf. The scarves in the pictures are 130-150 cm long and both sizes work well wrapped around the neck. So, first you have to decide how long you want the scarf to be, then make a swatch with k2, p2 ribbing and determine the needed stitch count according to the gauge. In order to get the stitch count to match all the different stitch patterns it should be divisible by 20 + 2 edge stitches (for example, 102 sts, 122 sts, 142 sts). The edge stitches are decreased when knitting the ridges.

CO desired amount of stitches and start working in k2, p2 ribbing. On RS the row begins and ends with k2. When the work measures 12 cm (4,75”), switch to k1, p3 ribbing on the RS as follows: *k2tog (=former k2 stitches), pick up the yarn between the stitches and ptbl, p2*. Repeat *-* to end. The row ends with k2tog. NOTE: in the fuchsia scarf the transfer from k2, p2 ribbing is not made this way, so do not take example for this part of the pattern from the fuchsia scarf pictures.

Work in k1, p3 ribbing for 4 cm (1,5”). Then switch to work in stockinette stitch: knit on the RS, purl on the WS. You can knit the edge stitches in garter stitch or pick the first stitch without knitting in order to prevent the edges from rolling. Work in stockinette stitch for 2 cm (0,75”).

Start knitting the ridges: on the RS, *k5, turn, p5, turn*. Repeat *-* for 10 rows in total, BO sts, break yarn. Make the next ridge the same way and continue until you have knitted all the stitches into ridges. If your stitch count is divisible with 20 + 2 edge sts, the sts will not go even when knitting the ridges. The first one of edge sts has already been decreased when transferring into k1, p3 ribbing, so now you have to decrease the one extra st left: knit one ridge as follows: k2tog, k4, turn, p5, turn and continue as usual.

Ridges worked in stockinette stitch can easily roll inwards, so to prevent this you might want to make some kind of edging to the ridges. This can be done e.g. by crocheting single crochet around the scarf edges, which is also a good way to hide the yarn ends: they can be hidden inside the crochet edging and you don’t have to weave them in individually. Another way to prevent the ridges from rolling in is to sew some extra yarn along the ridges’ edges.

To finish, weave in yarn ends, soak and block the scarf.

10 kommenttia:

  1. Nätti on vaikka en sanaakaan ymmärtäny:)

    VastaaPoista
  2. Kiva kun laitoit ohjeen - olenhan sen aikaisemminkin lukenut mutta tuo enkunkielinen on mielestäni laajempi! Kiitos siitä:D

    VastaaPoista
  3. you super star! thank you so much for the english pattern, thats one to cast on at the weekend! (if only i could find wool here the same colour, i love yours!)

    VastaaPoista
  4. Wow its awesome. I love the color.
    Jane

    VastaaPoista
  5. Thankyou so much for the English translation of the pattern! I can't wait to make this awesome scarf!

    VastaaPoista
  6. Oooh, that scarf is amazing!!! Absolutely gorgeous.

    - Julie

    VastaaPoista
  7. Jantta: Heh, sama ohje löytyy suomeksi tuosta sivupalkista nimellä Lohikäärmehuivi.

    Hannah: Jaa, no hyvä jos tuntuu yksityiskohtaisemmalta. Mä kylläkin tiivistin suomenkielisestä tähän käännökseen. :P Ehkä se vaan on nyt selkeämpi tai jotain.

    Sulkycat: A girl's gotta do what a girl's gotta do... ;) I had so many translation requests by email and Ravelry that it was about time I published the pattern in English. I'm expecting to see many more Dragon Scarves from now on... :D

    Jane: Thanks, the colour really is quite beautiful.

    Taj: Glad you like it!

    Julie: Thanks so much, your too kind!

    VastaaPoista
  8. Can you translate your beautiful pink bag into English, too? You are quite talented, and I would love to carry your bag!!

    Kathy in the USA jealous of the talent of a Finnish!

    VastaaPoista
  9. Blogin järjestelmänvalvoja on poistanut tämän kommentin.

    VastaaPoista
  10. Hello Vilma,


    I have just translated into French your knit pattern to realize the project and I wished to know
    if I could publish the French translation on my blog ?

    Thanks so much.

    Dorothee Dupont (alias Alfafa)

    VastaaPoista